The ‘Big Hat’: Safeguarding heritage off the beaten track at Nim Li Punit
Nim Li Punit Archaeological Reserve, Toledo, Belize © Ella Békési, Heritage Education Network Belize
Tucked away in the richly diverse foothills of the Maya Mountains, Nim Li Punit is one of the smaller Maya sites open to visitors in southern Belize’s Toledo District. The dense tropical forest surrounding the ancient ceremonial center has concealed its contents for centuries; until its rediscovery in 1976, the site remained all but unknown to much of the outside world.
Despite its modest size, Nim Li Punit has been the subject of international attention in recent decades because of its remarkable collection of stelae. Spread across the site, these monumental stone sculptures were used to commemorate the lives of political leaders, historical battles and ceremonial activity during the site’s settlement in the Late Classic period (C.E. 600-900). Their enduring inscriptions —seven of which contain large sections of hieroglyphic text— offer visitors, archaeologists and art historians a valuable glimpse into the lives of Belize’s ancient inhabitants. Since their uncovering, many of the glyphs included on the stelae have provided essential clues for researchers and have aided in the reconstruction of Maya history, culture and language from the period. These valuable clues have enabled archaeologists to classify Nim Li Punit as a dynastic center of its surrounding region, particularly throughout the 8th century. Today, the site is regarded as one of the principal Classic settlements of southern Belize.
Stela 14, Nim Li Punit Archaeological Reserve, Toledo, Belize © Sylvia Batty, Heritage Education Network Belize
One such stela, dubbed by site researchers simply as ‘Stela 14’, is known as the largest stela monument in the whole of Belize. Standing at an impressive 33 feet tall, Stela 14 is also the second-largest of its kind to be found in the entire Maya region. It is for this monument in particular that the site was given its modern Q’eqchi name, which most accurately translates to ‘Big-Hat’: the middle section of Stela 14 depicts a single figure, probably that of an ancient king, who is shown sporting a large, elaborately rendered headdress. The ruler is portrayed in what archaeologists believe to be a traditional offering or incense-scattering ritual.
Stela 14, Nim Li Punit Archaeological Reserve, Toledo, Belize © Sylvia Batty, Heritage Education Network Belize
Following its public rediscovery in the late 1970s, Nim Li Punit and its stelae became subject to emerging conversations surrounding efforts in heritage conservation, with particular attention given to the relationship between the notable rise in instances of looting at Maya sites in Belize and increased demand for Central American antiquities amongst foreign art markets. It became clear that looters had defaced several of the stelae: long, shallow cuts were identified in the stone surface, apparently the result of an attempt to cut the stelae into moveable sections.
Nim Li Punit Archaeological Reserve, Toledo, Belize © Ella Békési & Heritage Education Network Belize
The urgent need for protective legislation around Maya artifacts in Belize was clear. Thanks to local efforts and regulations enforced in the ensuing decades —most notably the UNESCO Convention’s prohibition of the illicit import or export of cultural property— the rapid destruction of Belize’s historical sites has been effectively curbed over time. Now a treasured site amongst tourists and archaeologists alike, the story of Nim Li Punit’s modern resurgence provides a promising example of the educational and economic rewards which can be successfully harnessed through the careful preservation of Belize’s material heritage.
Artifacts from Nim Li Punit Archaeological Reserve, Toledo, Belize © Sylvia Batty, Heritage Education Network Belize
The concentration of stelae erected at Nim Li Punit is just one of several features that makes the site unique. A breathtaking combination of historical, natural and architectural elements, the grounds of Nim Li Punit are brimming with stories. Its ornate stone structures and their accompanying inscriptions are time capsules into an ancient world, recounting a lost history which calls out to be discovered.
Nim Li Punit Archaeological Reserve, Toledo, Belize © Ella Békési & Heritage Education Network Belize
Nim Li Punit boasts a number of spectacular viewpoints along its well-kept trails and jungle walks. If you are lucky, you might even catch a view of the Caribbean Sea to the east on a clear day. Visitors can also explore an informative on-site museum where some of the stelae and various precious artifacts are kept on display, including beautiful Maya ceramics, shells, jadeite and obsidian.
Directions:
The site is easily accessible from the Southern Highway. Take the highway 25 miles north from Punta Gorda and exit for the reserve near the Indian Creek and Golden Stream villages. From Belmopan, take the Hummingbird Highway for 45 miles. Exit onto the Southern Highway and travel another 50 miles until you reach Indian Creek.
Written by Tia Merotto
Tia studies Art History and English at the University of St Andrews, United Kingdom. Her work explores topics including folk art, pre-Columbian cultures and the anthropology of art.