A Hidden Village in Northern Belize: A Travel Guide to Indian Church Village and the Maya Lamanai Archaeological Reserve
Lamanai was nominated to the 2022 World Monuments Watch!
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Learn more here!
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Lamanai was nominated to the 2022 World Monuments Watch! • Learn more here! •
Jaguar Temple, Lamanai Archaeological Reserve, Belize, © Ella Békési
Belize is a well-known destination amongst tourists, due to its vibrant culture, archaeological sites, natural reserves, and Caribbean resorts. Millions come to Belize every year, but some areas are still not visited at all. Indian Church Village is located right next to Lamanai, one of the largest Maya archaeological and natural reserves in Northern Belize. This small place, with a population of only 263 people, is a hidden gem, yet visitation is almost zero.
Having lived in the village, here is my travel guide to visiting Indian Church Village and the ruins of Lamanai.
HOW TO GET THERE?
Indian Church is remote, but there are a few ways to get there…
One option is to rent a car when you arrive in Belize. Take the Philip Goldson Highway (Northern Highway) from Belize City to Orange Walk Town, which is the closest big town. Then, take small roads to Indian Church. It is a 30-40 minute drive from Orange Walk, passing through other villages. Here is a Drivers Guide to Belize for a bit more info.
Roadmap to Indian Church Village, Google
Another option is to take the bus from the Belize City terminal towards Corozal. It will drop you at Orange Walk Town terminal, and you can change to another bus from the town's centre to Indian Church Village. These buses only go at 4pm sharp on Mondays and Fridays, so you have to time your trip, or stay a night in Orange Walk Town.
ACCOMMODATION
Marvi's Green Guest House
Marvi's guest house is a small building with four twin bedrooms, and two shared bathrooms, ideal for backpackers. Marvi and her family live next door, and she is the best host you can imagine. The place is cozy and always clean. There is no electricity in the village, so lights work with solar energy and plugs only work during the night. There are no meals included, but the local restaurants are cheap and very good.
Price/night/person: $US 25-30
Gonzalez Guest House
The Gonzalez Guest House is close to Marvi's. It has twin rooms, rooms with bunk beds and private bathrooms. There are no meals included and plugs only work for a few hours/day.
Price/night/person: $US 25-30
Mauricio's
Mauricio, a freelance tour guide from the village, recently opened a new guest house with a few twin rooms and shared bathrooms. He is a great host, who will also be happy to take you around Lamanai and Indian Church village for an extra fee.
Price/night/person: $US 25-30
Lamanai Outpost Lodge
*They have an old website, but they are legit
It is a hotel with thatched-roof cabanas, AC and all-day electricity. Their prices include 3 meals/day, and they also offer pick-up at the airport.
Price/night/person: $US200
TOURS AND GUIDES
There are several day tours offered to take you to Lamanai Reserve, and they are all excellent. Still, they tend to avoid Indian Church Village. The best thing to do, if you are spending time in the village, is to ask local tour guides to go with you on their own time. This way, you would have the chance to go around Lamanai as well as Indian Church Village. All the guides have excellent knowledge, and they are more comfortable talking about controversial issues during a private tour. Some guides you can contact are Christian Darrell Ramirez @nocturnal_eyes321 or Jorge Eduardo Ruano @jorge_ed_ruano_birdphotography
Tours with a personal tour guide from Indian Church usually cost around $US 35-45
In terms of what tours to go on… here are some tips for you:
Spend 1-2 full days at the ruins of Lamanai with a guide. You can visit the Maya ruins, the Colonial Spanish Churches and the British Colonial Sugar Mill.
You can go on nature walks or bird watching with guides.
Go on a trip to the Maya ruins and watch the sunset or sunrise. (It is beautiful.)
Do an Indian Church Village Walking Tour and get to know the people.
FREE TIME
Making tamalitos, Indian Church Village, Belize, © Ella Békési
I am always disappointed when tourists come to Lamanai Archaeological Reserve, and they are not even told that there is a whole village out there to see… So I would say the most essential part is to walk around the nearby Indian Church Village. It is the only way you can actually meet new people. There are small shops, bars and restaurants where you can spend time.
Here are a few tips:
Play football with the people in the village. People play every day when the sun is about to go down (around 4-6pm), and they are very welcoming. You can play or watch and talk to other people enjoying the game.
Visit the local school if you can (school day ends around 1-2pm). Talk to the teachers, get to know the students, and what they are learning about. It is exciting, and it is an excellent way to get to know more people.
Visit the local library and maybe donate books. It is a tiny and very pink building. You can ask around in the village about opening times.
If you are interested, you can also visit the Catholic Church of Indian Church Village. It might be interesting.
FOOD
Pupusas, Belize, © Ella Békési
Go and visit the local restaurants in the village. They make delicious traditional Belizean dishes.
At Las Orquideas, you can have the best tamales or Belizean rice and beans, freshly made every day. (You can also come here for breakfast if you let them know in advance). It is a women's co-operative and it provides jobs for many women in the village.
At Greg's (or officially called Camino Maya) you have to try the shrimp ceviche (it is the best in the village).
And at La Cabana, you can try fried chicken and tostadas.
Whether you visit for a week, or just a night, there is always a lot to do in Indian Church Village. Even the shortest visits can make a big difference for the people who work in tourism.
Lamanai & Indian Church Village was nominated for the 2022 World Monuments Watch!
Written by Ella Békési